Sunday, May 24, 2020

Homeward Bound

Back in January 2010, I had written about my experience in Prudhoe Bay, North Slope, Alaska. My return journey from North Pole, Alaska to my native town of Jorhat, Assam covering more than 5000 miles is the longest I had ever travelled to reach home. But I guess the term "distance" can have it's unique connotation sometimes. Tennessee Williams once said "Time is the longest distance between two places." During this continued lockdowns, when my mother was unwell, my 11days journey seemed like the longest i have ever travelled to reach home.

On March 24, when India went into the first lockdown 1.0, my wife and kid were in Tezpur at my in-laws for vacation, my mother was in Jorhat and I was in Thane. During this 6 weeks of lockdowns, I had accomplished quite a few personal achievements. I learnt to cook a few exotic recipes - from Sushi to Korean Bibimbap to Honey glazed Chicken. I worked out religiously and was 2 weeks into intermittent fasting. I had even made wine at home. However, it was during one of my routine calls with my mother, i learnt that she was not well, and I decided to be with her and my family. In the first week of May, Health Minister of Assam, Mr. Himanta Biswa Sarma had tweeted the email address to apply for e-Pass to travel to Assam. Additionally I requested Mr. Harmeet Singh (ADGP, Assam Police) for the e-Pass to travel using my personal vehicle.

On May 9th, as soon as I received the e-Pass, I was on my way to the nearby hospital to get myself checked. While I was excited to go home, I wanted to ensure that I do not carry the virus with me unknowingly. Once I got the doctor's clearance for the travel, I made a checklist of items and activities to prepare myself for the journey. I got some vital informations for the journey from the Assamese community based out of Mumbai and Thane. From the same community, Mr. Parth Gagan, approached me for a lift till Guwahati. As much as I wanted a company for this long journey, as he was a complete stranger to me, I ensured he had an e-Pass and a Medical clearance to travel.

On May 11th, equipped with sufficient Water, Hand-wash, Sanitiser, Food and other essentials, I picked Parth from Mumbai and started this one of its kind journey to Jorhat, Assam.  As the solo driver for the 3200 km drive, I decided to take Mumbai - Indore - Guna - Kanpur - Gorakhpur - Siliguri - Sreerampur Gate - Guwahati - Jorhat route.


So far I had only heard about the plight of the migrants in the news. The moment we crossed Thane and Bhiwandi, we faced an unexpected traffic from migrants trying to leave Mumbai in whatever means they could get. We crossed cluster of trucks packed with Migrants with their families. While some migrants were seen riding bicycles all the way to their homes in UP and Bihar, while some others were leaving cramped in tempos. We further crossed thousands of autos that travelled all the way from Mumbai carrying families along with their luggages. These travellers were directly exposed to the Sun and the hot wind (loo) that hit their faces and bodies. To their rescue, many social workers/NGOs distributed water and foods to them at various places. We were deeply saddened to see their condition. The helplessness and emotional look on their faces reflected their disquiet of the future.





 

Due to lockdowns I felt the traffic will be minimum and we would be able to cover 800 to 900 Kms every day easily. However, I was surprised to see the harrowing traffic all the way till we had crossed Bihar. All along the route there were only few restaurants that were open - and those too were overcrowded. On top of that, people get alarmed when they meet anyone from Mumbai, as Mumbai had become the epicentre of Covid cases in India. Occasionally, our friends or acquaintances had come to meet us on the highway and gave some warm food for the road ahead. But most of the time, we ate whatever supplies (breads, biscuits and fruits) we had from Mumbai to beat the hunger. Similarly, to attend to Nature's call, we opted to use the larger open washroom by side of the National highway, once you find a suitable bush to hide yourself if possible. Most nights, we either parked the car by a Police Station or Petrol pump to sleep. Due to mosquitoes, it was difficult to get sleep for more than 1 or 2 hours. By the second night, I had got used to 1:2 sleep-drive schedule - sleep for 1 hour and drive for 2 hours. However, at any circumstance, when I  was too sleepy to drive, I will park the car and sleep for a while. On one such occasion, we got stuck in a terrible traffic in a place called Kalpi that was around 80km before Kanpur. It took us almost 6 hours to cross a 10km stretch. Although my patience in dealing with slow moving traffic was quite high as I used to cross SCLR to reach BKC in Mumbai every day, but this stand-still traffic coupled with tiredness made me park the car by the roadside and sleep for a few hours.

At every state border, there were check gates where either temperature or e-Pass or both were checked. On the afternoon of 14th May, we eventually reached the Assam border at Sreerampur Gate. Over the years, every time I landed in Assam, I felt emotional, however, this time, the feeling was far more stronger. On seeing the sign boards written in Assamese and Police officials of Assam Police, I felt I was already home. We were pleasantly surprised to see the efficient process that was put to screen the travellers. At the border, first we were sanitised using the Sanitisation tunnel. There were various booths for different categories of travellers - travelling by personal car or by bus. Booths were further segregated by districts. The entire process seemed quite streamlined and automated.  Once the paperwork was done, all the cars were sanitised and then the cars travelling from outside North East to the region were convoyed together by  the Police all the way to Guwahati. Police officials from each district took turns in taking the convoy from one district border to the next border. As there were around 18 cars in the convoy, it took almost 8 hours to reach Guwahati, a journey that normally takes 4.5 hours. However, this way the government had ensured that all the travellers were taken straight to the Quarantine centre before they go to their families. Around 10.30 pm on 14th May, I dropped Parth at the gates of Sarusajai Quarantine facility in Guwahati and continued the last leg of the journey to Jorhat. As my car was the only car in the convoy travelling to Jorhat, I had to travel alone for the remaining 300kms.



At 10.30am on  15th May, 2020 I reached Jorhat and was taken straight from the border to Jorhat Covid testing center. At the center, my Covid swab test was done and the information was recorded. Till Covid test results comes, I had to stay either in a government provided facility or a designated hotel. I chose to stay at the Hotel closest to my home. The next 3 days at the hotel was agonising. Although my mother sent home-cooked food everyday, the idea of staying in a hotel in Jorhat and still not being able to meet my mother was difficult.

On 17th May 2020, I received a call from the Covid center that my test result was inconclusive as the swab sample got misplaced. I was shocked, perturbed and furious on hearing the news. To make things worse, Government authorities came only on the second half of the the next day to collect the swab again. I felt like venting my frustration by tweeting about it. But on seeing the health officials taking almost 30 min to put the special suit and collecting my swab, my frustration turned into gratefulness. Human errors can happen with anyone at any profession. Moreover, taking swab sample is not easy, leave alone the risk these officials are taking to control this pandemic. Further, if the government allowed me to leave based on inconclusive result, I might put my mother's life at risk. Government officials throughout the country has been working tirelessly only to safeguard the life of the citizens. Government's stringent rules are necessary to protect ourselves and our loved ones from this pandemic. I would thank the Assam Government for their proactive and stringent measures in controlling this pandemic so far. Further, I would like to thank the Police department who has been helping us at every step. From providing the e-Pass till convoying people from border to Hotels and maintaining law and order, the department is working tirelessly in this fight against Covid19.

After 7 days of Hotel quarantine, on 21st May 2020, at 4pm, I received a phone call from the hotel reception requesting me to come downstairs to get myself stamped as my test result came negative. I was put under Home quarantine for another 14days as per Government guidelines. I packed my luggages, took a slow bath and checked out of the hotel to go home, thus ending my 11days Homebound with elation.



Friday, June 4, 2010



I had visited Texas in the month of March, 2009 as part of some official work. My visit was to our office in Houston, which is the capital of the state. Texas is the second-largest U.S. state by both area and population. It is the home to NASA, Rodeos, steaks and everything that’s big.

Texas is always known for its “larger than life” image. Perhaps writer Pete Hamill had correctly said, “There is a growing feeling that perhaps Texas is really another country, a place where the skies, the disasters, the diamonds, the politicians, the women, the fortunes, the football players and the murders are all bigger than anywhere else.” Whether it is the people, or the food that’s served, everything is big.

Since childhood I had been fascinated with the Wild West movies, so I was particularly excited to watch Rodeo. Rodeo is a sport which arose out of the working practices of cattle herding in Spain, Mexico, and later the United States, Canada, South America and Australia. Today it is a sporting event that consists of events that involve horses and other livestock, designed to test the skill and speed of the human cowboy and cowgirl athletes who participate. The Houston Livestock show and Rodeo happens every year in The Reliant Stadium. This 20 days long event starts with the Downtown Rodeo Roundup, the Downtown Rodeo parade and the World's Championship Bar-B-Que Contest. The Show features championship Rodeo action including bull riding, livestock judging, concerts, a carnival, pig racing, barbecue and the International Wine Competition. Seeing real-life cowboys going through their moves was really incredible. In the evening, different bands give live performances to the roaring crowd.

I had some real fun watching baseball match in the Minute Maid Park in Houston. Minute Maid Park is a ballpark that opened in 2000 to house the Major League Baseball Houston Astros. Even though I was not particularly aware of the game much, but the high spirited atmosphere in the stadium would make anybody love the game. Can't think of anything more American than that! The charged-up and noisy excitement with the American flavor: hot-dogs, cheer-leaders, mascots, and buttered pop-corn.

Houston is also a great place for steaks, seafood and Tex-Mex. Tex-Mex is a word used to describe a regional American cuisine that blends food products available in the United States and the culinary creations of Mexican-Americans influenced by the cuisines of Mexico. I was really impressed by the quantity of food that was served in any restaurant for any meal we ordered compared to the other states in US. Houston is truly a place which will make people feel what the Americans mean when they say “Texan sized”. Particularly if you are a connoisseur of food and like everything big, you should visit this place.

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Alaskan Wilderness

Just felt like sharing the following link of the article which i had written on Alaska for Assam Tribune published on Jan 16th, 2010 : -

Friday, January 1, 2010

New Year Bash at 48 below and zero visibility, up in the north pole

I was really upset about my company screwing my new year plans. New year eve party has always been the best and most awaited party in the year. And every year like every other person who follows the Gregorian or rather the English calendar, i like spending with my friends or relatives, partying till mid night, dancing and getting drunk. This year, i was in Alaska and accordingly i had made plans with some of my friends to go to a ski resort and making sure that the entry to the new decade is the best till now in my life. Everything was planned and finalized until my manager called me a week earlier and asked me to go to a site in Prudhoe Bay.
















Prudhoe Bay during Summer

Prudhoe Bay is in the artic circle, and the site where i am posted right now is no where near to any human civilization. We got a few camps here wherein employees working for the Oil companies stay and works in a rotation of 2 weeks on and off. For all the people working here, new year or Christmas was just another working day. Getting to this place involved a lot of formalities and clearance from the concerned oil companies and the US govt. And to add to my agony, alcohol is strictly prohibited in this area throughout the year. On 31st night, while all my friends and relatives were partying and enjoying, i slept off at 8.30pm being upset with my boss, without knowing about the adventure that's waiting next day morning.

The camp i am staying is around 10miles from the facility where i am working on. The weather at this time of the year might get really extreme. In the artic, its always dark during this time and wind blows at times at a speed of 35mph all the way to Russia from Canada and vice versa. Here i am talking about a temperature span of -20 to -40 DEG C and a wind chill which might vary very well around -54 DEG. Frost bite and hypothermia are common here. When the visibility is low and too much of wind, security designates the driving condition as phase 2 and when it gets even worse and no visibility, its called phase 3 weather condition. During phase 3, driving is prohibited unless its convoyed by a Ice removing buldozer at front and a Security van at the back of a bus.

Ice Moving Bulldozer being followed by the Passenger Bus while convoying

As i woke up on 01-01-2010, i tried to make my mood better reminding myself that i don't want to be in this mood for the rest of the year. Since my Indian license is not valid in this part of the world where driving is way different, i use to take lift from anybody traveling to the facility i am working on. Today i took a lift from Jim, who is around 55 years old and works for ABB. Even though he wear specs i didn't doubted his eye's sight as i didn't find any reason so far in my life that i need to make sure abt eye-sight while talking lift. We went out and felt the wind, which was like no other i have ever felt. I felt as if it would rip me apart unless im inside the vehicle quickly. I hope there should be a different terminology or state when the temperature is well below -30. But i didn't had to worry, coz i was traveling with Jim who is as much experienced in Prudhoe Bay, as my age. We cleared the windows and jumped into his pick-up and moved.



Following the security vehicle just before reaching the facility
I didn't know that this weather condition is what is called phase 3 as i never had any experience with phase 2 itself. The visibility was next to zero. I started taking pics to show it to my friends while pointing at lights. Then suddenly when Jim stopped the car and said he's not able to drive any further and he hasn't seen something like that before, it freaked me out. We had covered around half a mile from our camp, there's an army of pickups at our back, counting on us, and suddenly its phase 3, and the narrow road doesn't have enough space so that we coould pull over our vehicle- its something which Jim declared- we're in a BIG MESS. To add to my fear, Jim declared that his eye sight was really poor and started rubbing his eyes. Looking at the nervous face on the old man's, i felt really sorry and insisted to let me drive. But Jim being a strict disciplinarian, he didn't allow.
Jim pulled the radio out but to make the new decade even more interesting, he's radio was out of battery. Here cellphone doesn't work at all the places apart from our camps. I could see a big army of vehicles at our back and we were at the lead- a guy with poor eyesight and an Indian who is not permitted to drive. You should be able to drive with proper guess work and should be able to forecast where a turn might be in or a bend. And if you are even 2inch more off the road, you'll end up in the tundra. Getting out of tundra is not possible in the best weather and needs to be towed and when you are in phase 3, nobody can come for rescue. The cars at our back won't overtake coz its not allowed and its risky.
I rememeber three things very well- first i prayed my gods end number of times, second i wished if there were those bad (or rather audacious) drivers of kolkatta and delhi who doesn't think twice while overtaking and wished somebody overtakes and leads the way. Third, we both were shoutiing at the top of our voice to each other if we were too much on the left or too much on the right. Couple of times, Jim had put on the brakes right at the edge of the road.
It had been well over an hour of driving at a speed not more than 10mph and stopped end number of times. Here i am talking about a wind which makes the visibility such that you can see a max of 10ft and barely can you see the edges of the car and ground besides the car so that you can tell if you are still NOT in the tundra. I made an attempt to get out of the car and ask the people at the back to lead the way, but nobody wanted to take the responsibility. It also made sense in a way that the road was too narrow even for a single big vehicle.
We had covered around 7miles and 3miles were still to go. And these 3 miles were even worst as it involved three turns. One wrong turn will lead to tundra and it might be days before help arrives or maybe the search party finds our bodies if at all we are not beneath a pile of snow. Suddenly Jim put the music on and we started singing Johny Cash. I was convinced that my boss made my new year the most memorable one. I started enjoying the thrill coz we were just 3miles away from help and we were leading the way to so many cars.
Thirty minutes later, we managed to reach a facility where a security truck was waiting for rescue. We pulled over and then we followed it rest of the way.

And now, we are waiting for the security convoy and bus to take us back to our camp. Here at the facility we have enough food for a night, but we are not sure how much time will the convoy take to come and if not to take us back, at least if they get some food for us. Nahhhhhh, but i am sure we'll come out real good, coz there hasn't been a single incident up here where so many employees didn't make it at the same time. But yes, at times they had to stay for nights together. But we already managed to cross the toughest part in the morning which makes me feel that this year will be a really good one as i had been so lucky and moreover was able to lead so many people.